Crested Geckos

*** Don’t throw away those delicups ***
On the bottom of the delicup of every animal we sell is a label with a serial number on it that is unique to that specific animal. This identifier contains species, lineage, and hatch/birth date information.

It is up to you to save this information as without it I will be unable to provide accurate information when asked questions about age or lineage.

Bringing your new gecko home:** -Your new gecko will need a couple weeks time to acclimate to their new home. Try to find a calm place in your home that will allow them to feel safe. During this time it is important to not handle them unless necessary to do so. It is not uncommon for it to seem like your new gecko is not eating and probably mostly hiding. Try not to make any changes to their environment or attempt assist feeding during this time as it will only prolong this acclimation period. Rest assured this is completely normal and after a few weeks your new gecko will begin to feel comfortable in their new home. Feel free to contact us if you would like guidance during this period or if it is taking longer than expected. We feed our geckos primarily on Pangea complete diets such as Fig, With Insects, and Growth and Breeding Formula. If feeding another diet from these, please understand that it will likely take additional time before your new gecko accepts the new food being offered. **

Housing:** – Enclosure: Provide a well-ventilated enclosure like a glass terrarium or screen cage. A 20-gallon tank is suitable for one adult gecko. – Substrate: Use a safe substrate like coconut coir or paper towels to line the enclosure. – Vertical Space: Crested geckos are arboreal, so ensure plenty of vertical climbing space. **

Temperature and Lighting:** – Daytime Temperature: Maintain temperatures between 72-78°F (22-26°C). – Nighttime Temperature: Allow a slight drop in temperature at night. – UVB Lighting: Crested geckos benefit from low-level UVB lighting for calcium metabolism. **

Humidity:** – Maintain humidity levels around 60-80%. Misting the enclosure 1-2 times daily helps to achieve this. **

Feeding:** – Diet: Feed a diet of specially formulated crested gecko powder (CGD) mixed with water, supplemented with occasional insects. – Feed every other day for adults and daily for juveniles. We prefer the Pangea complete diets such as the Fig, Insects, and Growth and Breeding Formula. **

Water:** – Provide a shallow dish of fresh, dechlorinated water. Mist the enclosure to create drinking surfaces. **

Handling:** – Allow your gecko to acclimate to its new environment for the first week or two before attempting to handle it. – When handling, be gentle and avoid sudden movements. **

Enrichment:** – Add branches, plants, and hiding spots for your gecko to explore and feel secure. – Geckos are known to jump; ensure that there are no hazards around the enclosure. **

Health Check:** – Keep an eye on your gecko’s health. Look for signs of shedding, proper weight, and regular bowel movements. – If any issues arise, consult a reptile veterinarian. **

Cleanliness:** – Regularly clean and disinfect the enclosure to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. **

Observation:** – Spend time observing your gecko to learn its behavior and preferences. – Take notes of any changes in eating, behavior, or appearance. **

Long-term Planning:** – Research the long-term care requirements, as cresties can live for 15-20 or more years. **

Interactions with Other Geckos:** – If you plan to keep multiple geckos, consult an expert on their compatibility and introduce them carefully. Remember that each crested gecko is unique, so paying close attention to its specific needs and behaviors is essential for its well-being. Regular research and observation will help you provide the best care for your new pet.

All of our geckos are housed in large bioactive enclosures with live plants. This male is basking under a UVB lamp.
When feeding babies a diverse diet, we noticed that some would start skipping certain flavors and waiting for their favorites to come back through the rotation. We now feed our babies primarily only two flavors. Fig & Insects, and Fruit Mix with Insects. Both of these are served mixed 50/50 with Growth & Breeding with insects.
We often like to “flavor it up” and add in fresh or frozen fruits, green tea, Kefir, Greek Yogurt, or even some Kombucha to our diets. Our favorites are ripe bananas, papaya, frozen wild blueberries and mango. We feel it is important to include fresh and even slightly over ripened fruits to the diet as they contain living beneficial bacteria and probiotics. Sometimes we will even add in multi-floral honey. It is important to note that these additions replace the liquid portion of the diet and the same amount of powdered diet is used.
Consistency should be smooth and almost an applesauce thickness. It will thicken a little more over the next several minutes.
A baby crested gecko exiting the egg.
We found this baby that had hatched in with the parents.
A hide, climbing surface, water cup, and a food dish tipped on it’s side. We house each gecko separately even as hatchlings.
Babies don’t eat much. I like to imagine that their stomachs are half the size of their heads. No need to supply more than they can eat. I supply new food three times a week.
Did you know that crested geckos love sansevieria.
They really love sansevieria.
As allergy sufferers we saw an improvement in our own quality of life when we started using air purifiers in our home. At the beginning of 2024 we implemented medical grade air purification in every room of our breeding facility.
We love getting update pictures. Especially when it shows the gecko living in a naturalistic vivarium.