Crested Geckos

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402 EXOTICS Crested Gecko Care Guide

Correlophus ciliatus

Crested geckos do well with a secure, furnished enclosure, appropriate environmental conditions, complete nutrition, and consistent care. This guide describes our methods at 402 Exotics. Other approaches can work when they meet the animal’s needs.

Care at a glance

TopicOur approach
Single adult enclosure18 × 18 × 24 inches, fully furnished
Breeding pair enclosurePrefer 18 × 18 × 36 inches, with monitoring and a ready separation enclosure
Daytime temperature72–77°F
Nighttime temperatureA drop to approximately 65°F
HumidityApproximately 80–85% overnight, followed by daytime drying
WaterClean water bowl at all times, plus misting droplets
LightingRegular day and night cycle; appropriately installed low-level UVB recommended
Staple dietPangea or BP Zoological complete gecko diet
Feeding schedule2–3 times per week
AcclimationApproximately two weeks with minimal disturbance

These are 402 breeder-practice targets. Measure conditions inside the enclosure rather than relying on the room thermostat.

Build a usable habitat

Provide cork rounds, branches, foliage, and secure retreats throughout the enclosure. Include horizontal and diagonal resting surfaces as well as vertical climbing routes. Place food and water near cover so the gecko can use them comfortably.

Glass and PVC enclosures can both work with suitable ventilation. Live plants are useful, but secure artificial foliage can also provide cover.

Paper towel helps with short-term monitoring. Keep the climbing structure and hiding places even when using it. For established planted enclosures, we favor tropical bioactive substrates with springtails and isopods. Continue maintaining food cups, water bowls, glass, and anything the cleanup crew cannot process.

Pair housing requires watching both animals’ feeding, condition, and behavior. Separate them if competition, persistent pursuit, injury, or declining condition develops.

Temperature, humidity, and lighting

Avoid overheating. Keep daytime temperatures around 72–77°F. High temperatures and powerful basking bulbs can quickly overheat the enclosure, leaving the gecko nowhere to cool down. A suitable room may provide enough warmth without additional heating.

Never use heat rocks. They can cause burns and dangerous localized heating. Keep the enclosure out of direct sunlight and away from concentrated heating or air-conditioning airflow.

Mist in the evening, aiming for drinking droplets to remain available into the morning. Allow exposed surfaces to dry during the day while maintaining appropriate substrate moisture. Adjust misting to the enclosure’s response; avoid stagnant, continuously wet conditions.

Provide a water bowl even if you never see the gecko drink from it.

Use a regular light schedule, with darkness at night. We prefer suitable T5 UVB systems with shaded retreats. Lamp selection and placement must account for distance, screening, and the locations the gecko can reach.

Feeding

We use Pangea and BP Zoological complete diets. Start with the exact formula your gecko was already eating.

Follow its mixing directions, aiming for a smooth, pourable consistency. Watery food delivers less nutrition per lick; overly thick food can become pasty as it dries. Never offer the powder dry.

Offer prepared gecko diet 2–3 times per week. Adjust portions to actual intake and body condition.

Keep flavor changes limited during acclimation. We have observed geckos skip meals while waiting for a preferred flavor to return.

Optional insects should be appropriately sized, gut-loaded, and supplemented. We use Repashy Calcium Plus, lightly dusting insects at every insect feeding and offering them shortly afterward.

Bringing your gecko home

Allow approximately two weeks to settle. Increased hiding and reduced intake are common. Keep the layout stable, continue familiar food, and minimize handling while the animal learns where to find shelter, food, and water.

If eating is difficult to detect, offer a pea-sized diagnostic portion. Increase it once intake becomes clear. If food access is questionable, add a second serving near cover without moving the original station.

Do not begin assist-feeding simply because you have not witnessed eating. A stable gecko needs uninterrupted opportunities to feed independently.

Handling, monitoring, and support

Begin brief, gentle handling after the gecko settles and feeds reliably. Let it step onto an open hand when possible. Leave hiding animals alone and never restrain one by its tail—crested gecko tails do not regrow.

Observe appetite, body condition, droppings, shedding, movement, and grip. When growth or intake is uncertain, consistent measurements on a 0.1-gram scale can help. Follow trends rather than reacting to one weight.

Troubleshoot temperature, hydration, security, food preparation, and access before changing diets repeatedly. Change one variable at a time.

Contact us for husbandry help. Weakness, abnormal breathing, injury, or persistent deterioration requires a qualified reptile veterinarian.

Keep your gecko’s full animal ID. Use our Animal ID Decoder for its information, available ancestry, and printable enclosure cards, and Animal Support & Updates for questions and progress photos.

Pale crested gecko resting on broad green leaves.
All of our geckos are housed in large bioactive enclosures with live plants. This male is basking under a UVB lamp.
Pangea gecko diet packages including Growth and Breeding, With Insects, and Fig and Insects.
When feeding babies a diverse diet, we noticed that some would start skipping certain flavors and waiting for their favorites to come back through the rotation. We now feed our babies primarily only two flavors. Fig & Insects, and Fruit Mix with Insects. Both of these are served mixed 50/50 with Growth & Breeding with insects.
Blender cup containing fruit and other food ingredients before mixing.
We often like to “flavor it up” and add in fresh or frozen fruits, green tea, Kefir, Greek Yogurt, or even some Kombucha to our diets. Our favorites are ripe bananas, papaya, frozen wild blueberries and mango. We feel it is important to include fresh and even slightly over ripened fruits to the diet as they contain living beneficial bacteria and probiotics. Sometimes we will even add in multi-floral honey. It is important to note that these additions replace the liquid portion of the diet and the same amount of powdered diet is used.
Prepared gecko food in a blender cup beside diet packages.
Consistency should be smooth and almost an applesauce thickness. It will thicken a little more over the next several minutes.
Crested gecko hatchling emerging between eggshells on incubation substrate.
A baby crested gecko exiting the egg.
Crested gecko curled among broad patterned leaves.
We found this baby that had hatched in with the parents.
Two gecko tubs with paper-towel floors, cork bark, and feeding cups.
A hide, climbing surface, water cup, and a food dish tipped on it’s side. We house each gecko separately even as hatchlings.
Small feeding cup containing a portion of prepared gecko food.
Babies don’t eat much. I like to imagine that their stomachs are half the size of their heads. No need to supply more than they can eat. I supply new food three times a week.
Crested gecko tucked between upright snake-plant leaves.
Did you know that crested geckos love sansevieria.
Crested geckos resting between overlapping snake-plant leaves.
They really love sansevieria.
Gargoyle gecko standing on a digital scale during a weight check.
As allergy sufferers we saw an improvement in our own quality of life when we started using air purifiers in our home. At the beginning of 2024 we implemented medical grade air purification in every room of our breeding facility.
Small orange-and-brown crested gecko resting on a keeper’s hand.
Young crested gecko with orange markings resting on a keeper’s thumb.
Dark crested gecko with pale dorsal markings resting across a keeper’s hand.
Crested gecko resting on top of an upright cork-bark tube.
We love getting update pictures. Especially when it shows the gecko living in a naturalistic vivarium.