Keep your animal’s ID. The label on the bottom of your delicup contains a unique ID with your animal’s species, lineage, and hatch or birth date. Save the label or take a clear photo—we need that ID to answer questions about your animal’s age and ancestry. Enter it below to read those details.
Ask us about your animal’s care
402 EXOTICS Crested Gecko Care Guide
Correlophus ciliatus
Crested geckos do well with a secure, furnished enclosure, appropriate environmental conditions, complete nutrition, and consistent care. This guide describes our methods at 402 Exotics. Other approaches can work when they meet the animal’s needs.
Care at a glance
| Topic | Our approach |
|---|---|
| Single adult enclosure | 18 × 18 × 24 inches, fully furnished |
| Breeding pair enclosure | Prefer 18 × 18 × 36 inches, with monitoring and a ready separation enclosure |
| Daytime temperature | 72–77°F |
| Nighttime temperature | A drop to approximately 65°F |
| Humidity | Approximately 80–85% overnight, followed by daytime drying |
| Water | Clean water bowl at all times, plus misting droplets |
| Lighting | Regular day and night cycle; appropriately installed low-level UVB recommended |
| Staple diet | Pangea or BP Zoological complete gecko diet |
| Feeding schedule | 2–3 times per week |
| Acclimation | Approximately two weeks with minimal disturbance |
These are 402 breeder-practice targets. Measure conditions inside the enclosure rather than relying on the room thermostat.
Build a usable habitat
Provide cork rounds, branches, foliage, and secure retreats throughout the enclosure. Include horizontal and diagonal resting surfaces as well as vertical climbing routes. Place food and water near cover so the gecko can use them comfortably.
Glass and PVC enclosures can both work with suitable ventilation. Live plants are useful, but secure artificial foliage can also provide cover.
Paper towel helps with short-term monitoring. Keep the climbing structure and hiding places even when using it. For established planted enclosures, we favor tropical bioactive substrates with springtails and isopods. Continue maintaining food cups, water bowls, glass, and anything the cleanup crew cannot process.
Pair housing requires watching both animals’ feeding, condition, and behavior. Separate them if competition, persistent pursuit, injury, or declining condition develops.
Temperature, humidity, and lighting
Avoid overheating. Keep daytime temperatures around 72–77°F. High temperatures and powerful basking bulbs can quickly overheat the enclosure, leaving the gecko nowhere to cool down. A suitable room may provide enough warmth without additional heating.
Never use heat rocks. They can cause burns and dangerous localized heating. Keep the enclosure out of direct sunlight and away from concentrated heating or air-conditioning airflow.
Mist in the evening, aiming for drinking droplets to remain available into the morning. Allow exposed surfaces to dry during the day while maintaining appropriate substrate moisture. Adjust misting to the enclosure’s response; avoid stagnant, continuously wet conditions.
Provide a water bowl even if you never see the gecko drink from it.
Use a regular light schedule, with darkness at night. We prefer suitable T5 UVB systems with shaded retreats. Lamp selection and placement must account for distance, screening, and the locations the gecko can reach.
Feeding
We use Pangea and BP Zoological complete diets. Start with the exact formula your gecko was already eating.
Follow its mixing directions, aiming for a smooth, pourable consistency. Watery food delivers less nutrition per lick; overly thick food can become pasty as it dries. Never offer the powder dry.
Offer prepared gecko diet 2–3 times per week. Adjust portions to actual intake and body condition.
Keep flavor changes limited during acclimation. We have observed geckos skip meals while waiting for a preferred flavor to return.
Optional insects should be appropriately sized, gut-loaded, and supplemented. We use Repashy Calcium Plus, lightly dusting insects at every insect feeding and offering them shortly afterward.
Bringing your gecko home
Allow approximately two weeks to settle. Increased hiding and reduced intake are common. Keep the layout stable, continue familiar food, and minimize handling while the animal learns where to find shelter, food, and water.
If eating is difficult to detect, offer a pea-sized diagnostic portion. Increase it once intake becomes clear. If food access is questionable, add a second serving near cover without moving the original station.
Do not begin assist-feeding simply because you have not witnessed eating. A stable gecko needs uninterrupted opportunities to feed independently.
Handling, monitoring, and support
Begin brief, gentle handling after the gecko settles and feeds reliably. Let it step onto an open hand when possible. Leave hiding animals alone and never restrain one by its tail—crested gecko tails do not regrow.
Observe appetite, body condition, droppings, shedding, movement, and grip. When growth or intake is uncertain, consistent measurements on a 0.1-gram scale can help. Follow trends rather than reacting to one weight.
Troubleshoot temperature, hydration, security, food preparation, and access before changing diets repeatedly. Change one variable at a time.
Contact us for husbandry help. Weakness, abnormal breathing, injury, or persistent deterioration requires a qualified reptile veterinarian.
Keep your gecko’s full animal ID. Use our Animal ID Decoder for its information, available ancestry, and printable enclosure cards, and Animal Support & Updates for questions and progress photos.















