Frequently Asked Questions

We look for someone who wants to understand the animal and can provide its care consistently. Experience helps, but preparation, suitable housing, reliable food, available time, and willingness to learn matter too. Our animals come first. We would rather help you get ready, recommend a better fit, or decline a sale than place an animal where its needs are unlikely to be met.

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Yes. A prepared new keeper can be a good home. Tell us what interests you, what space and equipment you have, and what daily care you can realistically provide. We evaluate the match rather than relying only on a beginner or advanced label. Some species are less forgiving; we do not place Abronia with true beginners.

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The enclosure determines whether the animal can stay warm or cool enough, hydrate, find food, hide, and move normally. Photos and actual measurements help us catch problems before the animal arrives. An attractive enclosure can still be missing an essential function, and a simple enclosure can work well when those functions are present.

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Our default minimum is three months, and many stay with us considerably longer. We want a history of normal eating, shedding, waste production, growth, and development. Some species, including Gastropholis prasina and Kenyan zebra skinks, may be ready younger, but that is a case-by-case decision. Reaching a date alone does not make an animal ready to leave.

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Ask about the specific animal. Our work centers on breeding, but we have also placed established breeders, animals acquired for our projects, and animals represented for others. We should identify the animal's origin and the records available for it. A lineage associated with another breeder does not automatically mean that breeder produced the individual being offered.

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Our prices support the time and resources required to raise animals properly, maintain their housing and nutrition, obtain veterinary care, and hold them until they are ready. Species, documented lineage, structure, growth, and breeding value can also affect an individual animal's price. Our goal is a sustainable program and appropriate homes. We do not price animals simply to move them as quickly as possible.

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Check current Availability or contact us with the animal ID or a screenshot. An older photo, care guide, or conversation shows what we worked with at that time; it does not confirm current stock. We sometimes reduce or retire a project when space, workload, or responsible placement makes that the better decision.

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● Choose the species and your preferences, then confirm your email to activate notices. Submit separate entries for different species. Current notices match species and sex; written requirements such as a particular lineage still need our individual review. Open the current listing when a notice arrives and check the details before requesting a reservation. ●

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● No. A waitlist entry or availability email does not create a hold, guarantee first refusal, or guarantee an animal that meets every preference. A reservation requires our approval and the agreed payment arrangements. If a confirmed sex or particular lineage is essential, state that clearly before committing. ●

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● Our published reservation terms require a 25% deposit. Deposits are non-refundable; discuss any transfer with us. The balance is normally due within 30 days unless we agree otherwise before the sale. Read the current Terms and Conditions for the full payment and cancellation rules. ●

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● No. We can arrange a direct purchase, shipping, or an agreed public meetup. Currently listed shipping is a flat $65, hub to hub. We confirm availability, payment, and delivery arrangements with you. Contact us before assuming a particular meetup or shipping date is available. ●

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We coordinate shipping around suitable weather and the animal's readiness. Payment does not make an unsafe shipping day acceptable. Seasonal holds and weather changes may affect timing, so confirm the plan with us and keep your receiving arrangements flexible. We would rather hold an animal safely than rush its shipment.

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Hub pickup is our preferred shipping arrangement. Plan to collect the animal promptly in the window agreed with us, and have its enclosure ready before shipment. Keep in contact if a delay or other problem occurs. Timely pickup and prompt communication are important parts of how we evaluate shipping problems.

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● Contact us immediately and document the animal and packaging. Our published terms require reporting a dead-on-arrival animal within one hour of hub pickup, with three photos emailed within four hours, including a readable box and label. Other arrival health concerns must be reported within four hours. Read the current terms before shipment. ● An animal needing urgent veterinary care should receive it promptly.

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● Our published terms do not provide a refund for a dropped tail. ● For a crested gecko, the tail will not grow back. Tail loss does not automatically mean the animal cannot thrive, but injury, continuing bleeding, or conflict with another animal needs attention. Never restrain a gecko by its tail.

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Yes. Photograph the label and keep the complete animal ID with your records. It connects the animal to its species, project or lineage information, and hatch or birth date. Include it whenever you ask us about age, ancestry, feeding history, or an update. Without it, a photograph alone may not let us identify the animal reliably.

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Have a secure, furnished enclosure running before pickup. Verify actual daytime and nighttime temperatures, hydration, ventilation, and the humidity cycle. Place food and water near cover, and have the exact diet and formula the animal was eating with us. If you intend to house a breeding pair, have a second suitable enclosure ready for immediate separation.

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Increased hiding, reduced food intake, and skittishness are common while a gecko learns its new surroundings. Give it a quiet location, familiar food, accessible water, cover, and minimal disturbance. Approximately two weeks is a useful expectation, not a deadline or a reason to ignore illness. A stable animal needs uninterrupted time; a deteriorating animal needs help.

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Not seeing a meal does not establish that nothing was eaten. A small gecko may take only a few licks, often when nobody is watching. Check the environment, food access, feces, and overall condition. Offer a tiny diagnostic portion of the familiar diet so small amounts of intake are easier to see. Contact us if condition declines or the concern continues beyond settling in.

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For many newly acquired geckos, approximately a pea-sized portion is a useful starting point. Very small species may need even less to make a few licks visible. This is a monitoring tool, not a permanent ration. Once the gecko is consuming the portion consistently, increase it to meet actual intake. A full dish can hide the evidence you are trying to observe.

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Place it along a normal travel route near foliage, a cork opening, or another secure retreat. Food can be physically within reach while the location still feels too exposed for the animal to use comfortably. If access seems poor, leave the existing station in place and add a second small station near cover rather than repeatedly moving the first.

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Leave the layout stable during initial acclimation unless there is a real safety or husbandry problem. The gecko is learning where its hides, branches, water, and food are. Repeated rearrangement makes it relearn those locations. If something useful is missing, add it with the least disruption possible and observe the result.

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Do not assist-feed an otherwise stable, normally acclimating gecko simply because you have not witnessed a meal. Our geckos are established independent feeders before sale. Extra handling can prolong stress, and filling the animal by hand can reduce its reason to visit the food dish. Medical feeding support is a separate matter that belongs under appropriate veterinary guidance.

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A quieter location can help if the current room is noisy, busy, or repeatedly startling the animal. Choose a place with suitable measured conditions and no direct sun or concentrated HVAC airflow. Make a needed move deliberately, then let the animal settle. Repeatedly moving the enclosure from room to room creates another changing part of its environment.

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● No. Settling into a new enclosure and managing disease risk are separate concerns. Keep new animals separate from an established collection while following a quarantine plan appropriate to the species, history, and veterinary advice. Looking comfortable and eating does not by itself establish that an animal is ready to join other reptiles. ●

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A reputable complete prepared gecko diet should be the foundation. We use and trust Pangea and BP Zoological. Confirm the exact formula your animal was eating with us and continue it during acclimation. Homemade fruit mixtures, baby food, and products sold only as treats should not replace a complete diet.

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We carry both because they have earned a place in our own feeding program. The useful questions are which complete formula the animal eats reliably, how it maintains condition, and whether preparation and feeding are consistent. During acclimation, continuity matters more than switching brands. We do not treat one brand as automatically best for every animal or every situation.

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No. The manufacturer's 2026 analysis lists minimum crude protein and fat at 28% and 14% for Original, compared with 23% and 11.6% for ColorBOMB and MELON•istic. Their ingredients differ too. These are label values for the packaged diets, not proof that one formula will produce better growth or color in every gecko. Choose deliberately and judge the animal's response over time.

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Start with the directions for that formula. We aim for a smooth, pourable mixture with enough body to show lick marks, slightly thinner at preparation than thick pudding or ketchup. Food loses moisture while sitting. Starting too thick can leave a pasty meal; making it watery reduces nutrition per lick. If a familiar diet is being refused, a small texture adjustment is worth checking before changing foods.

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No. These powdered complete gecko diets are intended to be mixed with water. Dry powder is not an equivalent meal. Prepare the food according to the product directions, then make any small consistency adjustment deliberately.

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For crested geckos, our current care guide starts growing juveniles with daily or nearly daily access. Many stable adults do well with food roughly every other night, or three to four nights per week. Adjust portions and frequency to intake, body condition, life stage, and the formula. A reduced schedule used for one reluctant feeder is not automatically the right schedule for every growing gecko.

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We prefer a small, consistent group of proven formulas. Some geckos eat heavily when a favorite appears and then wait for it to return, which can make intake less consistent. During acclimation or feeding troubleshooting, stay with the familiar food. Once feeding is established, introduce a deliberate change and observe it rather than cycling through a different flavor every night.

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● For routine Pangea feeding, the manufacturer says to remove uneaten prepared diet within 24 hours. ● Follow the directions for the specific product and remove food sooner if it is contaminated or spoiling. Keep the cups clean. Our second-night technique below is a separate, targeted troubleshooting practice rather than the normal food-handling instruction.

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We have repeatedly seen reluctant feeders begin eating Pangea or BP Zoological diet on the second night. This is a targeted breeder technique after checking environment, hydration, stress, preparation, and access. It extends beyond the normal 24-hour handling instruction and is not suitable as a blanket rule for all foods or enclosures.

● Our working explanation is that changes in aroma and texture may make the food more appealing to some animals. The feeding response is our observation; that proposed explanation is not proven. ● Discuss the particular animal and setup with us before using this approach. Contaminated or spoiled food should not be offered.

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Small additions of ripe banana, papaya, mango, or plain canned pumpkin have been useful in our feeding troubleshooting. Keep the complete diet as the nutritional base. We generally keep fresh-food additions below about one-quarter of the prepared mixture and introduce one change at a time. These additions can alter nutrient balance, so they are optional tools rather than something every meal needs.

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No. We have used very small amounts as selected palatability modifiers, but that does not make them proven probiotic treatments for reptiles. They are not routine requirements, substitutes for a complete diet, or treatments for illness. If a stable animal remains reluctant to eat after the basic checks, ask us about the next appropriate feeding adjustment.

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Do not add them automatically. A complete diet already includes a vitamin and mineral formulation, and extra products change that formulation. Insect supplementation is a separate part of the feeding plan. Match supplements to the actual diet, insect intake, UVB exposure, and life stage rather than assuming that more calcium or D3 is always better.

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Some readily take insects and some refuse them. A complete prepared diet remains the foundation. Appropriately sized live prey can provide hunting opportunities, variety, and useful nutrition when the individual accepts it. We do not force insects on an otherwise thriving crested gecko or treat insect refusal alone as evidence of disease. Other gecko species can have different feeding priorities.

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Choose prey the individual can subdue and swallow easily without a prolonged struggle. A feeder that suits an adult may be unsuitable for a juvenile or a tiny gecko species. Oversized prey can result in refusal, injury, or regurgitation. Tell us the species and animal's size if you are unsure; a feeder's name alone does not tell us whether it is appropriate.

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It means feeding the insects appropriately before offering them to the reptile. The insect's nutritional condition becomes part of the animal's meal. Keeping feeders alive on poor food is not the same as preparing nutritious prey. Maintain feeders well, use an appropriate gut-loading method, and then apply the supplement required by your feeding plan.

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We use Repashy Calcium Plus. ● Its directions call for a light coating at every insect feeding, with the insects fed shortly afterward. ● That schedule belongs to that formulation. Plain calcium, higher-dose D3 products, and other multivitamins are not automatically interchangeable. Do not stack supplements without reviewing the complete diet and UVB setup.

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First confirm how much it actually eats. Our chahoua × crested hybrids can be very insect-driven and may fill up on prey. Offer a small, visible portion of the familiar complete diet near cover and monitor intake. Review insect quantity and timing rather than adding more of everything. Keep the complete diet available and increase its portion as the animal starts consuming it consistently.

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We prefer 18 × 18 × 24 inches for a single adult. For a breeding pair, we prefer 18 × 18 × 36 inches; 18 × 18 × 24 inches is the minimum our guide considers for a pair, with active monitoring and a separation enclosure ready. These are our crested-gecko standards. Furnishings and usable space matter as much as the outside dimensions.

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A larger enclosure is not automatically too large. Check escape gaps, secure cover, connected climbing routes, and whether the animal can readily find food and water. Monitoring a tiny gecko is harder in a large, complex enclosure, which can make a smaller temporary setup practical. The useful question is whether the enclosure works for that animal, not simply how many gallons it holds.

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Our current guide allows managed breeding pairs when both animals remain stable. That requires sufficient space, multiple secure retreats, food access, ongoing observation, and the ability to separate immediately. Sharing an enclosure is not automatically appropriate simply because two animals are available. When feeding or growth is uncertain, individual housing makes it much easier to determine what each animal is doing.

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Watch for one animal losing condition, hiding more, being displaced from food or preferred cover, receiving repeated unwanted attention, or sustaining injuries. You do not have to witness a dramatic fight for the arrangement to be failing. Compare both animals' behavior and condition over time. Separate when the arrangement compromises either animal, then investigate the cause.

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We favor cork rounds and bark, secure branches, foliage, and multiple retreats. Connect climbing routes at different heights and include horizontal and diagonal supports as well as vertical surfaces. Main branches should comfortably support the animal's body. The gecko should be able to rest, hide, move, and reach its resources without constantly crossing exposed empty space.

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Plants that have worked well in our crested-gecko enclosures include pothos, snake plants, ZZ plants, Schefflera, and several philodendrons. Choose pesticide-free plants, inspect and clean them, and position them to provide useful cover and routes. This is our experience in those gecko systems, not a universal edible-plant list for herbivorous reptiles or every species we keep.

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Paper towel is useful during acclimation, quarantine, or close monitoring because waste and feeding evidence are easy to see. Keep the cover and climbing structure. For established crested-gecko enclosures, we use tropical planted substrates, including suitable ABG-style or soil-based mixes. Different recipes can work if they support plants, manage moisture, and remain suitable for the animal.

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In a mature system, springtails and isopods can process much of the routine organic waste. You still maintain food cups, water bowls, glass, plants, drainage, and anything the cleanup crew cannot manage. Watch odor, moisture, plant health, and the cleanup crew itself. A waterlogged, foul-smelling, or overloaded enclosure needs intervention rather than more confidence in the word bioactive.

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No. Crested geckos already use glass, and cork, branches, and plants can provide the needed structure. A background can add texture, attachment points, and visual appeal, but it can also make complete cleaning harder. We often prefer cleanable walls in breeder systems. A permanent display enclosure may justify different choices when the same care functions are maintained.

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Our target is 72–77°F ambient during the day, with a nighttime drop to about 65°F. Measure the enclosure where the animal rests and travels, including different heights and nighttime lows. The thermostat setting or the temperature elsewhere in the house does not establish what the gecko experiences. These targets belong to our crested-gecko guidance and should not be copied to unrelated species.

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We do not recommend routine basking bulbs when the enclosure already provides suitable temperatures. A strong bulb can overwhelm a small enclosure and remove the cooler retreat the gecko needs. If supplemental heat is necessary, it must be controlled and tested in that setup. Never use heat rocks, and keep the enclosure out of direct sunlight through a window.

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For crested geckos, think in terms of a cycle. We mist in the evening to provide droplets into the morning, then allow a gradual daytime dry-down. About 80–85% overnight is a practical reference in our guide. Do not force one number around the clock. Exposed surfaces should not remain continuously wet, and the enclosure needs enough ventilation to function normally.

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There is no useful universal spray duration. Enclosure size, ventilation, room humidity, plant mass, substrate, and nozzle output all change the result. Watch the droplets, the daytime dry-down, and substrate moisture. Change the smallest part needed: one wet enclosure may need a nozzle adjustment, while an entire row behaving the same way may need a schedule change.

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Yes. We provide a clean, stable, accessible water bowl as well as drinking droplets. New Caledonian geckos do drink standing water, even when the keeper never sees it happen. Some use droplets readily, some use the bowl, and many use both. Place the bowl near cover so drinking does not require unnecessary exposure.

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They have been maintained and bred on complete diets containing D3 without UVB. We still recommend appropriately low UVB when it can be installed correctly, with full shade available. Our guide uses approximately UVI 0.5–1.0 at the highest usable perch as a conservative starting target, with areas near zero. We prefer a low-output T5 system and judge the actual exposure rather than the bulb's marketing alone.

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No. Distance, mesh, reflector, foliage, and perch position all affect exposure. Measure at usable animal locations when possible. A Solarmeter 6.5 or 6.5R reads UVI. A 6.2 or 6.2R reads UVB irradiance and cannot be read as a UVI number. Also check that the gecko can choose shade rather than being exposed everywhere it goes.

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No. Give crested geckos a clear daytime light period and full darkness at night. A 12-hour light and 12-hour dark schedule is a practical baseline. Being active after dark does not mean the animal needs a visible night bulb. Use the daytime setup to provide the intended light environment and verify any temperature needs separately.

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Normal room air movement can help ventilation and dry-down, but avoid a direct blast from a heating or cooling vent. Automatic misting can improve consistency and save time, especially across a collection. It still requires inspection: a timer can run while a system has lost prime or a nozzle is not delivering water. Verify what reaches the enclosure and keep a practical way to provide water if it fails.

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Wait until it is eating independently, using the enclosure normally, and showing stable behavior. This often follows the initial acclimation period, but the animal's behavior matters more than a calendar date. Start with short sessions. If handling causes renewed hiding or poor feeding, reduce the disturbance and let the animal regain its routine.

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No. Handling is not a biological requirement. Our aim is a calm, predictable interaction the animal can tolerate, not a daily quota. Some animals become comfortable with more contact; others do better with less. Give them recovery time and let their response determine the pace. Repeatedly forcing contact can work against the trust you are trying to build.

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Approach slowly from the front or side, offer an open hand, and let the animal step onto it when possible. Support its body and work over a low, safe surface. Avoid grabbing from above, restraining the tail, or chasing it around the enclosure. Our reasoning is to reduce sudden restraint and movements that may be perceived as a threat.

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Do not routinely remove a stable gecko from its refuge just for reassurance or handling. Hiding lets it manage exposure. Check food, water, conditions, and other useful evidence, then give it uninterrupted time. A genuine health concern may justify closer inspection, but that is different from repeatedly disturbing normal hiding behavior. Persistent fleeing, freezing, or frantic jumping is a reason to stop an interaction.

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Genetics, sex, temperature, diet, insect intake, stress, season, and individual biology all affect growth. We first check the controllable factors: actual temperatures, hydration, security, food access, diet preparation, and possible competition. Then we assess body condition and the trend. A slow-growing animal deserves attention without immediately assuming either that it is defective or that nothing is wrong.

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A growth chart is a reference, not a deadline. Compare the animal with an appropriate species reference and its own history, including body condition and feeding. An animal below our expected growth range warrants a closer review, but a single age-to-weight comparison does not identify the cause. We are aiming for healthy development rather than the fastest possible weight gain.

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We do not remove every gecko just to generate routine numbers. When growth, feeding, breeding condition, or visual body condition is in question, weighing becomes useful. Use a scale reading to at least 0.1 g and measure under reasonably consistent conditions. Choose an interval that gives useful trend information without unnecessary disturbance. Drinking, urinating, and passing stool can all move a small animal's weight noticeably.

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Our acclimation guide uses about 20% loss from an established body weight as a point to seek additional guidance. It is not a safe-loss allowance or a reason to wait. A sustained downward trend, declining condition, or signs of illness can justify help much sooner. Contact us for husbandry review and involve a qualified reptile veterinarian when the animal's condition calls for it.

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Significant weakness, abnormal breathing, marked dehydration, oral lesions, repeated regurgitation, severe diarrhea, blood, prolapse, tremors, injury, or sustained deterioration require veterinary assessment. Poor grip with abnormal movement or changes to the jaw, limbs, or spine also deserves prompt attention. We can help review husbandry and provide the animal's history; we do not diagnose disease or prescribe treatment.

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Look for retained shed around the toes and claws, and note whether the problem occurs only on one surface or alongside weakness, abnormal movement, or declining condition. Check the enclosure and recent shedding history. Trouble gripping has more than one possible cause, so do not assume it is merely dirty glass or diagnose a nutritional problem from that symptom alone. Send clear photos and seek veterinary help if physical abnormalities are present.

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For ordinary glass smears we use reverse-osmosis water with a clean cloth or paper towel. Vinegar helps with mineral buildup, with ventilation and residue removed. Deep disinfection is a different job: remove the animal, remove organic debris, clean first, then use a suitable disinfectant at its labeled dilution and full wet-contact time. Follow its rinsing, ventilation, drying, and storage instructions. Never mix cleaning chemicals.

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No. Stability, observation, secure resources, and appropriate hydration are broadly useful principles, but temperatures, UVB, diet, enclosure size, social housing, and breeding needs vary by species. Start with the correct species guide and the individual's known history. When species-specific information is limited, we should say so rather than fill the gap with a familiar species' care sheet.

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These small geckos can consume extremely small amounts. Offer a tiny portion of the familiar complete diet near cover and look for lick marks, feces, and stable condition. Keep the original food station and add another if access is questionable. For individuals already accustomed to insects, appropriately tiny prey can provide another appetite observation. Avoid automatically switching foods or starting Q-tip feeding because a large cup looks unchanged.

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Size alone is not the main concern. Tiny babies can escape through door edges, vents, lids, and cable openings that seem insignificant. They also need accessible food, droplets, and cover, and you need a workable way to monitor them. We have used small temporary grow-out arrangements, but those are temporary tools. Inspect the actual escape risks before choosing the larger enclosure.

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We prefer pairs. In our experience, females can be dominant, and keeping multiple females together has gone poorly often enough that we avoid that arrangement in our own breeding program. Space, sight barriers, climbing structure, multiple retreats, and access to resources matter. Other keepers may succeed differently, but our recommendation reflects the arrangement we have found reliable.

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We have had good results leaving babies with the parents for a limited period and suggest moving them out within about two months. That is a monitored breeder arrangement, not permission to leave an expanding group together indefinitely. Provide abundant appropriate feeding opportunities, cover, and multiple usable spaces, and verify that the babies are actually feeding and developing. Separate sooner if the arrangement is not working.

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Only when we can confidently establish sex for the animals available. Many of our juveniles leave before they are old enough for us to sex accurately. Two unrelated juveniles are not automatically a male and female pair. If a confirmed pair is essential, make that a requirement before reserving animals rather than assuming an unsexed purchase will produce the sexes you need.

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Ask for that individual's established feeding history: prey type, size, preparation, and recent feeding record. Getting hatchlings started has varied between our clutches, so a species-level statement that they eat mice is not enough. Confirm the current enclosure, hydration, temperatures, and the setup it will need as it grows. We want animals feeding dependably before placement, not customers inheriting an unresolved feeding project.

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Our IDs carry the species, one or more project or lineage fields, the hatch or birth date, and sometimes an individual sequence. Read the complete identifier because a code's position matters. For example, RA.RS.01012026.2 identifies a gargoyle gecko in the Red Stripe project, hatched January 1, 2026, with sequence 2 for that complete prefix on that date.

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Historical IDs use MMDDYY or MMDDYYYY; both remain valid. A final .2 means the second animal from that exact coded prefix to hatch or be born on that date, not the second animal produced across our whole collection. Keep the original ID unchanged even if we later improve the coding system. Send us the complete label when an older format is unclear.

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Not always. A code may identify a project, group, locality, or collection branch. Exact parents and generation require supporting records. FF and PDV indicate those breeder lineages; they do not necessarily mean an animal was bought directly from that breeder. We should preserve what is documented and state the limits rather than turn a broad lineage label into an unsupported pedigree.

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In a lineage position, LS identifies the Leanna Schlesiger collection branch associated with Frank Fast founder stock. It does not, by itself, establish an exact parental pair or filial generation. In an ID such as MC.PI.LS, PI identifies Pine Island and LS identifies that collection branch. LS at the beginning of a historical ID can instead be the species code for Laemanctus serratus.

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No. PV means pores visible and NPV means no pores visible. They are assessments, not definitive sex declarations. Species, maturity, and the quality of the observation matter. We have specifically found pore-based sexing unreliable in gargoyle geckos. Ask whether an animal is confirmed, probable, or unsexed when sex is important to your plans.

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Sometimes. Tell us the species, the records you already have, and whether you need confirmed sexes. We can compare available lineages where the documentation supports it. Different-looking animals or different labels alone do not establish that they are unrelated, and availability changes. Genetic diversity is a priority for us, but we will not promise ancestry the records cannot establish.

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No. Our chahoua × crested hybrids are sold as pets only and must not be bred. ● If you transfer one to another owner, the same restriction must follow the animal. ● Our concern is protecting pure-species lines: backcrosses such as 25/75 hybrids can be harder to recognize as hybrids and could be mistakenly bred back to a pure species.

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Include the full animal ID, when it came home, the concern and when it started, clear photos of the animal and entire enclosure, and actual day and night temperatures. For feeding problems, include the exact food and flavor, mixing consistency, amount, frequency, location, insect feeding, water and misting routine, handling, and any recent changes. Dated weights help when weight is the concern. Specific observations make useful advice possible.

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Bring us the specific disagreement and your setup. Start with the animal's known feeding and care history while checking that its present conditions are appropriate. More than one method can work when it delivers the same biological needs. We will compare the reasoning and evidence instead of changing several things simply because a different number appeared online.

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Use our website Contact Hub or email info@402exotics.com. For animal questions, use Animal Support and Updates and include the ID. Keeping the details together in writing makes it easier to review the history. We prioritize genuine animal-health concerns, but messages are not an emergency service. Seek veterinary care promptly when the animal needs it.

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Contact us for help finding responsible rehoming resources. We do not promise routine returns or buybacks. An animal returning from another collection creates quarantine and biosecurity concerns, and a past exception does not establish an ongoing return program. Tell us about changing circumstances early so there is time to work toward a suitable placement.

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Yes. We welcome updates on the animal, its enclosure, and how it is doing. Include the ID so the update stays connected to the right animal. If we would like to share a photo publicly, we will ask permission. Updates also help us understand long-term outcomes and improve the guidance we provide to future keepers.

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